The Tour de Mont Blanc (TMB) is a 105-mile circular hiking route that circles Mont Blanc across France, Italy, and Switzerland. The entire hike takes 7-11 days, but it can also be hiked in sections. Four years ago, my husband and I joined a group of friends and did half of the TMB, hiking counterclockwise from Chamonix to Courmayeur (my husband actually did the whole thing while I only did half). Our itinerary for that trip is available here. We have also done group hikes to Patagonia, the Dolomites, and the Haute Route in Switzerland.
This year, a friend from that original trip wanted to celebrate her 60th birthday by taking her kids on the other “half” of the TMB, from Courmayeur to Chamonix (counterclockwise). The trip grew to include four families, all of our kids (all in their 20s or early 30s), their significant others, and one additional friend. 30 people in all. Quite a crew for a hiking trip! And it was awesome.
There is nothing quite like being in the mountains with friends and family. Spending long days climbing (and descending) the Alps, stopping at mountain huts for coffees and pastries, and being surrounded by incredible scenery is magical. Unplugging from phones and deadlines to share a meal every evening—whether sleeping in a comfortable hotel or a rustic refugio bunkroom—made the experience truly unforgettable.
Below is the general info about the trip and how we planned it, followed by a summary of the itinerary and a packing list. For those who really want to get into the weeds, a full day-by-day description is also included.
General Info:
When: July 11-18, 2026, with 6 actual hiking days.
Planning: We started planning the trip almost a year and a half in advance—we were such a large group and the small huts/hotels we wanted to stay in sell out quickly. The trip itself was self-guided, but we worked with Pygmy Elephant to plan the trip, book accommodations, and arrange luggage transport. Last time, we booked everything ourselves and carried all our items in our backpacks, but this year, we saved a lot of time and headaches by using Pygmy Elephant! They provide the group with an app with detailed daily info on the route, distances, elevations, and more. You can also upload the route into AllTrails, plus all the walks are so well marked there’s little chance of getting lost. Plus, there are LOTS of hikers on the TMB! We made many of our dinner reservations when we were in towns, but they managed our accommodations with the huts and hotels.
Packing Logistics: We each carried a backpack with water, rain gear, medical needs, clothing, etc. Each family was allowed one bag (so our family of 7 people shared a single bag) to transport items from one location to the next, so we could not bring/pack a lot! We ended the trip at the same hotel where we started, so we could also leave our suitcases there for any additional items needed for pre-and post-hike travel.
Daily Distances/Elevations: We hiked for 6 days, with daily distances ranging from 7-15 miles, hiking times from 4-6 hours/day, and elevation gains ranging from 1,500’ to 5,000’ per day. I personally hiked about 45 miles and about 11k in elevation gain, and I skipped one day on the trail.
Daily Schedule: After an amazing breakfast of fresh bread, cheese, eggs, yogurt and more would usually start hiking by 8:00 am (people spread out on the trail and hiked at their own pace, so we were never a group of 30 hiking together), stop at a mountain hut for coffee and a snack late morning (one always appears magically just as you need it!), eat lunch at a mountain restaurant, hike to lodging and arrive by 3-4ish, soak feet in a stream if available, wash/hang clothes as needed, enjoy downtime and have dinner. We were in bed by 9 or 9:30 pm, tired and happy.
Lodging: We stayed primarily in hotels, but also stayed in a few on-mountain refugios (mountain huts with group rooms/shared bathrooms).
Itinerary Summary:
Tour de Mont Blanc Packing List:
Pack Type:
Bring the lightest backpack available. Many of us used Osprey packs with capacities ranging from 20 to 45 liters (around 35 liters seemed the norm). Make sure it can accommodate a water bladder and is properly fitted to your body (I had REI do the fitting for me).
For the Trail:
- 1 Hiking Shorts (or skort) (quick dry)
- 1 Hiking Pants (quick dry) NOTE: Most people hiked in shorts because of the warm weather. Some didn’t bring pants. I hiked in a skort almost every day.
- 1 Long Sleeve Hiking/Sun Shirt with Hood (Quick dry. This one from Path Projects was LOVED by those who had it – SO lightweight.). I wore an IBKule shirt every day.
- 2 Short Sleeve Hiking Shirts (quick dry). I just wore the IBKule shirt for arm coverage.
- 2-3 Socks (wool) Darn Tough socks recommended.
- Rain Jacket
- Rain Pants
- Fleece jacket (on the thinner side that packs down well)
- Puffer jacket (good as a pillow as well)
- Thermal top and bottoms (lightweight kind)
- Sun hat with good brim (love the Tilly hats), or cap with flaps that protect you from the sun on your neck/face
- 1 Set of clean clothes for post hike each night (I had sweats that doubled as sleepwear)
- Neck buff or bandana
- Toiletries (bring minimal/small bottles)
- Phone chargers and adaptor (all refuges we stayed in had a few communal outlets for use)
- Power bank (especially if camping)
- Hiking shoes
- 30-35L Backpack (or bigger if camping)
- Backpack rain cover
- Telescopic Hiking Poles (A MUST)
- Sunglasses
- Water bottle or bladder (at least 2 liters)
- Guide book/map (1 per group)
- 2 Bars/snacks for emergency food/hunger (you can get more on the trail as needed)
- Sun gloves (optional but give good protection)
For Staying in a Refugio:
- Sleep sack/sleeping bag liner (you sleep in this and have blanket/pillow they provide as well)
- Sleeping attire (can use thermals or t-shirt, etc)
- Beanie/gloves
- Flip-flops or Crocs (you take off your hiking shoes in refuges and need lightweight shoes for walking and showering).
- Head torch
- Ear plugs/eye mask (optional, but if you are in a bunk room it is good to have)
- Small travel towel
Other:
- First Aid Kit (one person carried most of the items for the group)
- Map
- Whistle
- Pen Knife
- Phone charging cord and adaptor, as needed
- Ziplock bag
Detailed Itinerary – The Nitty Gritty:
For those who want all the details, here you go!
Day 1: July 11
Chamonix
Everyone arrived in Chamonix, a beautiful, super-sporty town surrounded by mountains.
Our hotel, Plan B, was PERFECTLY situated in town, next to the bus station, a block from the tram, and close to downtown shopping/dining. The rooms were clean and nice, and we could store our luggage while we hiked. Highly recommend.
Dinner at Bizes (booked ahead). SO GOOD.
Day 2: July 12
Chamonix to Courmayeur
We were supposed to take the tram from Chamonix over the mountain to Courmayeur to begin our hike the next day, but the tram didn’t open for the season until the following day! Instead, we took the tram up to the mid station, which is highly recommended, as you can see Mont Blanc, all the climbers, and the incredible views, then took it back down to Chamonix to shop and have lunch before taking the bus to Courmayeur. We wandered through Courmayeur and loved it.
Dinner at Chalet Svizzero (and amazing cocktails beforehand)
Hotel: Chalet Svizzero in Courmayeur. It’s beautiful, with a great location, an amazing breakfast, and highly recommended. Our second time staying there. The people who work there are really friendly and accommodating.
Day 3: July 13, Day 1 of Hiking
Chamonix to Rifugio Elena
The hike begins! This was our biggest elevation gain day of the trip.
- A van took our packs and some of us to the trailhead to avoid a big uphill walk on city streets to the trailhead. At the trailhead, we started a steep UP right away through a forest, and kept going UP for 2,600 feet until we hit Refugio Bertone, where we stopped for needed coffee and pastries. Quite a start to the trip (see graph below)!
- This was followed by what was my favorite hiking section of the entire week—a beautiful rolling hike surrounded by wildflowers and towering mountains that looked like a green screen. It was divine.
- Another short, steep up to lunch at Refugio Bonatti, then a nice after-lunch hike that ended with another big up to Rifugio Elena.
Hotel: Refugio Elena: Some had private rooms, and the kids and we were in the large shared dorm room of maybe 30 people. Before dinner and bed, everyone played cards and drank beers on the deck with the most amazing view of the mountains.
Day 4: July 14, Day 2 of Hiking
Half of Group: Rifugio Elena to La Fouly
Half of Group: Rifugio Elena to Ferret
- Out the back door of Hotel Elena, we had a big uphill climb on a rocky slope to Grand Col Ferret, followed by a long downhill through meadows the rest of the day.
- We stopped for lunch at a dairy farm, Alpage des Ars, at the bottom of the long downhill for lunch and ice cream, and it was so good after a big, hot hike! A must-stop location!
- Then, more downhill to Ferret, where half the group stayed (due to bed limitations), and the other half went a mile farther to La Fouly.
- It was World Cup playoffs, and we watched at a bar in La Fouly after dinner at each of our hotels.
- La Fouly also had a small grocery store where people stocked up on chocolate and snacks.La Fouly Hotel: L’Edelweiss (very clean and nice, and has tv’s in the room)
Ferret Hotel: Hotel du Col de Fenetre (a bunk situation for some)
Day 5: July 15, Day 3 of Hiking
La Fouly to Champex-Lac
There was an option to skip today and take a couple of buses to Champex, or to hike partway and then take a bus for the last uphill stretch from Praz-de-Fort.
- For those who did not opt to do that, the hike started with a beautiful gradual downhill most of the day through small hamlets with flower boxes on the homes and cows in the fields. Really beautiful.
- We stopped at Les Crepes de Lola for a snack, which is like an upscale food truck in a field and was delicious.
- Some opted to skip lunch due to potential rain and hike all the way through Issert and do the uphill climb through a forest to Champex-Lac, where we had a late lunch.
- Others had lunch, waited out the rain, and then did the uphill climb.
- The afternoon was spent exploring town, doing laundry, and relaxing at the nicest hotel of the trip. A few went swimming in the beautiful lake, despite the poor weather.
- Everyone gathered for cocktails and cards/games before dinner.
- Dinner at the hotel.
Hotel: Hotel Splendide. It was really lovely, a short 5-minute walk into town and the lake.
Day 6: July 16, Day 4 of Hiking
Champex-Lac to Trient via Alp Bovine
- The day started with a gradual downhill as we left town, followed by a big uphill climb through the forest to our lunch spot, Alpage de Bovine. 3 hours and 6.5 miles later, we were all hot, sweaty, and hungry as we sat down to our rosti potatoes, surrounded by cows. YOU NEED RESERVATIONS FOR LUNCH; otherwise, you can just get coffee and pastry to go.
- After lunch, it was all downhill, and we stopped at Hotel/Restaurant Col de la Forclaz for $$ burgers while it poured.
- We then continued a steep descent to Trient.
- Once there, one family and 5 of the adult kids had arranged to be picked up for transport back to Chamonix to end their hiking portion of the trip. I opted to join them and skip the next day’s hike, spending the night in Chamonix.
- Those who stayed in the cute village of Trient ended up playing soccer on a local field and having a great time.
- Dinner at the hotel.
Hotel: Auberge du Mont-Blanc
Day 7: July 17, Day 5 of Hiking
Trient to Tre le Champ, and train to Chamonix
- This day brought the group back to Chamonix, where we started the trip (and where our luggage was awaiting us), and the following day we hiked out of Chamonix.
- The hike had a big uphill, and we then took the gondola downhill to Le Tour, followed by a bus into Chamonix.
- Dinner at Bighorn Bistro in Chamonix (reserved ahead of time), which worked well for a big group.Hotel: Plan B in Chamonix
Day 8: July 18, Day 6 of Hiking
Hike from Chamonix
- To officially finish the last leg of the TMB, we would have hiked from Tre le Champ to Planpraz (the ladder route). However, everyone ended up taking the bus to the Flégère gondola.
- Once up the mountain, some went on runs, and some hiked. If you go right off the gondola, you go towards the “ladder” section of the TMB hike, and if you go left, you have a nice walk looking down on Chamonix and across at Mont Blanc – amazing scenery. You can take the Flegere gondola back down, or if you turn left and walk about three miles, you can take another gondola down that drops you right into town. You get on the gondola right where all the parasailers are taking off.
- Everyone’s distances were different that day, so I won’t include a map/elevation gain.
- Lunch in Chamonix (I ate for the second time at Cool Cats – yum), shopping (so many sports stores), and wandering in the afternoon. Final group dinner at Sesame.Hotel: Plan B
Day 8: July 19, Travel Day
Everyone had bus or train plans to go to the airport or to their next destination. 6 of us went on to Switzerland to meet up with 17 others for week 2 of hiking on the Via Alpina. That itinerary can be seen here.
Guide of all Shelters Along the Entire TMB, With Distances:
