We recently traveled to India with two friends from grad school, Audrey and Kirsten. The four of us have traveled together many times before and love adventures to far-flung destinations. India is definitely that, and so much more! It’s a true sensory explosion in every way, including sounds, smells, tastes, and sights. We loved it!
We booked our trip through an on-the-ground Indian tour company called Heritage India. Jo used them in 2017, and they once again put together a great trip for us. Our contact is Suresh Saini at tours@heritageindiaholidays.com. Because they are an Indian travel company, we cut out the middleman (companies like TAUK, Abercrombie & Kent, and Kensington hire local companies like Heritage India to do the work on the ground and then add a healthy markup). We saved about 50%! The cost per day was around $350 each, which included a full-time driver (Mukesh was amazing!), guides in each city (Neru in Jaipur was incredible!), five-star hotel accommodations with breakfast (at Leela Palace and Oberoi properties), and additional activities like rickshaw and elephant rides. Being spoiled with a full-time driver on call, complete with an air-conditioned car and cold water at the ready, made the trip much less stressful, especially in 100+ degree heat!
The two of us started in Southern India, in a region called Kerala. If you’ve read Covenant of Water, this is the region on which the book is based. Known as “God’s Own Country”, Kerala is famous for its backwaters, houseboats, tea plantations, hill stations, pristine beaches, and Ayurvedic spa treatments. We loved it and are already planning to go back! We then flew north and met Audrey & Kirsten in Delhi. We spent about 10 days touring Delhi, Jaipur, Ranthambore, and Agra.
Below is our overall itinerary, followed by a more detailed day-to-day itinerary for those who want to dig a bit deeper, including notes on our daily highlights.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrive at Cochin Airport after midnight, transfer to the hotel via 2 hr drive
Day 2: Kerala: afternoon and night on a houseboat
Day 3: Kerala
Day 4: Explore Fort Kochi, Fly Kochi to Delhi
Day 5: Delhi Sightseeing
Day 6: Delhi Sightseeing
Day 7: Drive to Jaipur
Day 8: Jaipur Sightseeing
Day 9: Jaipur Sightseeing
Day 10: Drive from Jaipur to Ranthambore
Day 11: Drive Ranthambore to Agra
Day 12: Agra Sightseeing
Day 13: Drive from Agra to Delhi to fly to the US
Day by Day Detail:
Day 1: Kerala:
- Check into Kumarakom Lake Resort
- Ayurvedic treatments in the hotel
- Drive to Marai Beach and swim in the Arabian Sea
- Tour the nearby town of Alleppey
- Dinner in the hotel
Notes: We loved the Kumarakom Lake Resort – it’s serene, tropical, and incredibly relaxing. Plus, it has a 200-meter pool that meanders through part of the resort, and our ‘meandering pool villa’ was located alongside it, offering one-step front-door access to this amazing pool, where we could do 10-minute laps. There was also an infinity pool alongside the lake. The 45-minute drive to the Arabian Sea took us through local villages. The beach was long and uncrowded, and the water felt like a bathtub, so warm. The locals all came out at sunset for a gathering and to dip (clothed) in the water.
Day 2: Kerala
- Yoga at the hotel
- Ayurvedic treatments down the street at Amritha Ayurvedic Treatment Center
- Board the houseboat at the hotel for the afternoon and overnight on the boat
Notes: Sunrise yoga is free, held outdoors overlooking the lake, and a beautiful, relaxing experience! The local place we went for Aurvedic treatments (massages, etc.) was really inexpensive ($30 for 90 minutes or so), no frills, but very relaxing and a great way to experience the local treatments like warm oil being poured on your forehead for 30 minutes, being put in a ‘hot box’, and being pounded by a hot cloth filled with herbs. We also LOVED the houseboat – it was just us and a crew of 3, and we explored the backwaters slowly and also transferred to a smaller longboat for an hour exploration of narrower canals where people live and farm right on the water.
Day 3: Kerala
- The houseboat returned to the hotel in time for breakfast
- Relax at the hotel pool
- Dinner in the hotel
Notes: Waking up to a quiet morning on the houseboat, with local fishermen getting their daily catch, was idyllic. Then, a day to relax, get over jet lag, and do some remote work was perfect.
Day 4: Kerala
- Yoga at the hotel
- Ayurvedic treatments down the street at Amritha Ayurvedic Treatment Center
- Drive to Fort Kochi and tour the town: Jew Town, Paradesi Synagogue, St. Francis Church
- Shop at Anokhi, famous for block-printed clothing and linens (they also have stores in Jaipur and elsewhere)
- Late lunch at Pandhal Café and Deli
- Fly from Kochi to Delhi
- Check into Leela Palace Hotel
Notes: A few more local Ayurvedic treatments were great, and we then checked out of our hotel and drove about an hour to Fort Kochi, which is actually a town, not a Fort! An afternoon of exploration, lunch, and some shopping was the perfect amount of time.
Day 5: Delhi
- Drove through New Delhi, by Delhi Gate
- Tour Jami Masjid, a large mosque built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 1650s
- Rickshaw ride through Chandi Chowk area
- Spice tutorial at Afghan Store
- Visit Lotus Temple, a Bahai House of Worship (quick visit to see the beautiful building)
- Lunch at Suribachi.
- Visit Qutb Minar, the world’s tallest brick minaret, built to commemorate the Muslim conquest of Delhi in 1192
- Shop at Andraab, a famous Pashmina scarf store in the hotel
- Dinner at The Library Bar, in Leela Palace hotel
Notes: We had the same driver with us from Delhi for the rest of the trip, and he was fabulous. We then had a different guide in each city we went to, all of whom were great. We loved starting the day with the rickshaw ride through the old town – great way to jump into the city! All the other sites were interesting as well, with our favorite being the Qutb Minar, I think. And we started our ‘Pashmina’ education at Andraab. Don’t be fooled by everyone who tells you their goods are from Kashmir and are truly Pashmina (made from the hairs under the goat’s neck). The good, authentic Pashminas start at around $250 and increase in price depending on the embroidery and other factors. They are beautiful, handmade pieces of wearable art.
Day 6: Delhi
- Visit the President’s Palace
- Visit Gurudwara Bangla, a Sikh temple, that feeds 30-40,000 people a day from volunteer donations
- Visit Humayun’s Tomb, the burial site of the Mughal Emperor Humayun, which is known as a precursor to the Taj Mahal
- Lunch at a spot the guide chose.
- Visit the Gandhi Smriti Museum, where Mahatma Gandhi spent the last 144 days of his life and was assassinated on 30 January 1948
- Dinner at Bukhara in ITC Maurya Hotel, Chrissie’s favorite dinner in years!
Notes: Our favorite stops of the day were probably the Sikh temple where they were feeding about 20,000 (!) people that day….for free. We toured the kitchens and saw the amazing, well-organized meal in progress. We also liked Humayun’s Tomb and the Gandhi Museum. The dinner at Bukhara was AMAZING. Book ahead or arrive before they open to add your name to the wait list.
Day 7: Delhi to Jaipur (4 hours)
- Drive to Jaipur (about 5 hours)
- Lunch at Anokhi Cafe, followed by shopping at Anokhi’s flagship store (blockprint textiles)
- Shop at Rasa for women’s fashion and linens
- Check into hotel: Oberoi Rajvilas
- Pool time & henna treatments
- Dinner at the hotel, sitting outside at the Surya Mahal hotel restaurant
Notes: We went a bit crazy at the Anokhi store as their materials are beautiful and the prices are great. We all bought lots of items (bags, pillow covers, shirts, dresses) for ourselves and to gift to friends and family. The Oberoi hotel is amazing, with lush, expansive grounds that is home to 100 peacocks roaming freely, a large pool, an opulent lobby, and excellent restaurants, all served by very attentive staff. Really amazing.
Day 8: Jaipur
- Yoga at the hotel
- Tour Amber Fort, including an elephant ride
- Tour Shri Jagat Shiromani ji Temple, a Hindu temple constructed in the early 1600s
- Visit Panna Meena ka Kund, a step well from the 16th century
- Shop at Artamme for Pashmina scarves. The owner is a former partner at Andraab.
- Lunch at Samode Haveli, a hotel just outside of town
- Shop for block print textiles at Saurashtra Impex – a wholesaler who manufactures for John Robshaw, Print Fresh, and Anthropologie. Good source for clothing and linens. They can make custom napkins, bed linens, dresses, etc., in just a few hours!
- Shop at Narain Niwas Palace
- Dinner next door at Bar Palladio
Notes: This was a terrific day in Jaipur, where we loved the beautiful Amber Fort (and the elephant ride up to it). The small Hindu temple and step well nearby are also must-sees. Artamme is on the road as you leave the Amber Fort, and it offers beautiful Pashmina scarves, making it worth a stop. The Samode Haveli is an incredibly beautiful home that has been converted into a hotel and is a great place to have lunch (or to stay if you want to be in town) – the bars and pool are to die for! Our two shopping spots after lunch were fabulous – the piles and piles of amazing fabrics spread over three floors at Saurashtra Impex were so much fun to browse through, and it’s within walking distance from the lunch spot.
Day 9: Jaipur
- 6 am walk through the vegetable and flower market near City Palace
- Visit Govind Deo Ji Temple
- Drive to Dera Amer, an 180-acre safari camp/animal sanctuary in the countryside, where we fed and bathed elephants, did yoga, and had breakfast
- Tour City Palace, the current residence of the Jaipur royal family. Shopped inside the palace grounds at The Palace Atelier and The PDKF store for clothing and gifts
- Visit Wind Palace, Hawa Mahal, built in 1799
- Shop at Gem Palace and Gem Plaza
- Lunch at OTH (On the House)
- Shop at Dhanlaxmi Handicrafts for block print clothing and linens
- Drinks and dinner at the hotel: Rajwada Library Bar and Surya Mahal
Note: We loved the early morning trip to the flower market as they were setting up – so much beauty and color! Yoga, elephants, and breakfast at the Dera Amer farm were a special experience as well! We loved the City Palace, and the shops there were also great for block print items. If you want fine jewelry, Jaipur is the place to shop, as 80% of the world’s gems are fabricated here. Go just to browse! The block print ‘store’ (more of a dusty room in an industrial area with towers of materials stacked up) was a fun place to buy $15 pajamas in bright, fun patterns like those sold at PrintFresh.
Day 10: Drive to Ranthambore (3-1/2 hours)
- On the way out of town, we visited Gyan Museum, the factory of Gem Plaza, the museum of its founder, and the shop. Amazing! Contact: Ankesh Jain at mail@gamplaze.net to set up a visit and see these amazing gems being made on-site.
- Checked into Khem Villas hotel in Ranthambore
- Afternoon Safari at Ranthambore National Park, looking for tigers but no luck 🙁
- Shopping at the hotel gift shop – wholesaler to Print Fresh, Anthropologie. Had clothing made overnight! Rural Woman’s Crafts: ruralwomencrafts@gmail.com
- Dinner at the hotel (not great…)
Note: We loved the tour of the Gem Plaza factory, where we saw how fine jewelry is actually made. Fabricators sorted stones, made molds, and set jewels as we watched. Set this up ahead – a must if you like jewelry! Plus, you can buy at their ‘factory store’. Our Tiger safari was really hot (110 degrees), and unfortunately, we didn’t see a tiger, but it was still fun to be in the countryside. The hotel had safari tents and was nice (although no views from our tents) but the dinner was really poor (breakfast was fine), and it was just so hot! We were scheduled to spend a second night in Ranthambore, but because of the heat, we decided to leave a day early and head to Agra. This was a good call because it gave us two nights in Agra (at an incredible hotel!), one rest day, and broke up the driving days. In the hotel, the person who runs the small gift shop makes items at his village factory for Anthropologie and PrintFresh, and made clothes/napkins for us overnight, and quickly shipped us a duvet cover and more that we ordered. It was a great find!
Day 11: Drive Ranthambore to Agra (5 hours)
- Stopped halfway at Abhaneri, a stepwell from the 8th to 9th century. Worth the stop!
- Checked into Oberoi Amarvilas
- Dinner in the hotel at Bellevue, a more casual restaurant
Notes: We loved the brief stop at the step well – so interesting and amazing. And then the hotel… well, it’s amazing. With incredible grounds, a pool, fountains, a lobby, a library, and a view of the Taj Mahal from our rooms, it was spectacular. For $500 per night per room, it’s an amazing experience.
Day 12: Agra Sightseeing
- Visit Taj Mahal. We recommend arriving at the entry before 5:30 am (by 5:15 am?) with no purse, etc., so you don’t have to go through security. Pre-buy tickets! It gets crowded quickly! If you have a guide, they should provide everything. However, insist on an early arrival and make sure they get tickets ahead of time. Then zoom ahead after a quick photo to get time inside the Taj Mahal before the crowds join you there.
- Visit the Red Fort, the main residence of the Mughal dynasty emperors until 1638
- Balance of the day free at the hotel/pool
- Dinner at the hotel restaurant, Esphahan
Note: The Taj Mahal is, of course, AMAZING. Get there before the doors open! We also loved the Red Fort, and we were back at the hotel for breakfast and loved our last day relaxing by the pool at this amazing hotel. Great way to finish the trip.
Day 13: Drive Agra to Delhi to fly to the US (4 hours)
- Late check out (2 pm)
- Drive to Delhi airport for late-night flights back to the US
Note: Sad the trip had to end!
